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Good morning and welcome back to the ValorosoIT channel: the channel dedicated to retrocomputers and vintage electronics. The topic of today's video is the construction of a composite video cable (CVBS) for MSX computers, the ones you see behind: Philips VG-8010, Philips VG-8020, Philips VG-8000. I know you've tried: I can read your mind! Have you tried inserting the video cable of the Commodore 64 (or the Commodore Vic20) into the connector of these Philips, to see if you could see anything on the video. However, the result is either that you saw nothing, or, alternatively, that you saw black and white. This is because, in the Commodore 64 cable, the video signal does not connect to the composite video signal of the Philips, but rather it connects to the luminance signal of the MSX, which is, by definition, a black and white signal. So… don't do it! Then, if the cable is designed well, so there is only the video signal connecting to the luminance signal, you do not run the risk of damaging either the computer or the monitor. But, who knows, maybe whoever made the cable also connected other wires that they shouldn't have connected. So I, honestly, would only use specific cables for these types of computers.
To build the composite video cable for the Philips VG8010, Philips VG8020, Philips VG 8000, I use this DIN connector that I miraculously found inside my connector drawer. He wasn't prepared: I went to check and, lo and behold, there was this very connector. It's dumb luck! On the TV side you will need two RCA connectors, therefore: white and red for the audio signals and yellow for the video signal.
So, you have two options: either you buy those connectors, like these here, that you can build yourself, then, using a shielded cable, solder the two conductors: the braid, then the shield, the negative, and the signal. However, by doing so, you get a cable, in short, which is a bit disgusting to the dog... to the dog, what have you understood, it disgusts the dog! In fact, you will have a very thin shielded cable, because there must be three inside the DIN connector, so you cannot choose a very thick cable and you will have, on the other side, the cable that fits here like this. So a small cable inside a large connector, as far as the RCA connector is concerned. The alternative that I suggest, which is the one I use, is to recover some old connectors that you may have around. So in this case, I have this one here which is double RCA video. Yellow for the video. It might even be convenient to build two of these cables. Or, okay, we said this one sucked, so... go!
Another video connector that can be recovered by cutting off this Jack connector and keeping, for example, only the yellow RCA connector. Or, even better, look at how beautiful this one I've already found: it already has all three wires connected. So both the audio outputs (right and left) and the video output already with three shielded cables, which I, at this point, cutting here, perhaps a little further away so that I can recover this connector in the future, I can insert inside the DIN connector specific for the video port of the Philips MSX, Philips VG 8010, Philips VG 8020, Philips VG 8000 and then go and do all the necessary soldering.
So, honestly this is the option I like the most. So a very professional cable will come out, because it has these three connectors that are already printed on the cable and soldered inside. And, on the other side the DIN connector, specific, will connect to this height. I will insert these three wires, I will solder them on the three pins that are needed, therefore: ground, audio output, which will then split into the left right audio channel, and CVBS composite video output.
On which computers will the magnificent audio video cable we are going to build work? Well, certainly on the Philips VG-8020 but as long as it is in specific versions. Not all VG 8020s are compatible. Below is the version, in this case it is bar 40. The VG-8020/40 is compatible, because it has a PAL composite video output. The VG-8020/00 is compatible. Other versions are compatible, but the barra 19s are not. So the VG8020/19 is not compatible, because there is an RGB output instead of CVBS, which would then be the composite video output.
The same thing, let's see it here, applies to the Philips VG 8010. Without breaking the door, which was trying to open. Below you have your label, in this case you can see that it is a Philips VG-8010/00 which is compatible. Instead, the VG 8010/19 would not be compatible for the same reason seen previously, because it would have an RGB output instead of PAL composite video.
Where can you find all this information to see if your computer is compatible with the video cable we are going to build? Well certainly, if I have it in my collection, on my website www.valoroso.it I insert the technical data sheets of the various computers, including the Service Manual and, inside, there are all the electrical diagrams, including the video output diagram. Then see if the contacts match. Alternatively, you have to do some research on the various sites, to see if the pinout of the connector is compatible with that of the cable that we are now going to build. Unfortunately, not all MSX computers are compatible with this cable. So, on the one hand the attempt to make MSX a standard was appreciable... however, a software standard. In this case, the hardware is particularly different from each other and, as we have seen, not even between different versions of the same computer, the cable may be compatible. But I am very confident that your computer is in a standard version, so go and check, in my opinion if you have a Philips VG8020 or a Philips VG8010 (or VG8000) it will be compatible.
Another aspect that I would like to address before getting into the heart of the construction of the video cable is: why build a video cable, a composite video cable for Philips VG8020 or Philips VG8010 computers? Also because, you know very well that the computer can also be connected to the television via the RF output. If I can remove this cap... you see that it is a Philips VG 8020 antenna output, channel 36, you must use an antenna connector of this type. And, on the other side, you connect it to the TV antenna. While, as regards the Philips VG8010, the channel is 32. We discovered it in the video relating to the Philips VG-8010, when I did the boxing and when I tried it. Insert the antenna and the other side into the TV. And, with channel 32, obviously analogue television, you can see the image. Well, in this case, I think that, with the video cable, we will have superior video quality. Because the antenna requires two more conversions. Then, starting from the CVBS composite video signal, it is modulated in RF, inside the television it is demodulated by RF and returns composite video. If we succeed directly with a composite video signal and enter the television with the composite video signal, at this point we skip two conversions.
To build the audio/video cable, we need a few tools. I probably forgot some too. Certainly the Service Manual of one of these two computers, therefore the Philips VG-8020 or the Philips VG-8010 (or the Philips VG-8000), in which you can see - wait until I show you - where you can see the arrangement of the video connector pins. In this case you will see it from the back, so it is as if the connector was inserted inside the computer and we solder the contacts behind it: CVBS is 5, audio is 3 (this one on the left) and ground is 2 (this one at the bottom). Then, the connector behind the computer is an 8-pin. I use a 7-pole, however, in reality, you could also use a 5-pole, which only takes these here, the five contacts below. Even, by removing the two upper ones that we don't use, because: one is not connected and the other is the most 12 volt, which would not make sense to use anyway. So even a connector with 5 poles arranged in a smile would be enough. I use a 7-pole one, because that's what I found in the drawer. Or you could get an eight-pole one, but with the contacts arranged in a circle, not the one on the Commodore 64 (when you use the S-Video output). Because, in that case, the contacts are not arranged in a circle, but the two upper ones are slightly widened, so the connector wouldn't even fit.
Obviously we need a soldering station, solder, flux to clean the contacts, the cable that we are going to cut, the connector that we are going to solder, some tweezers, scissors for stripping cables, the tape in case we want to isolate the individual contacts before closing the shell of the DIN connector.
Here, another thing that we should do before assembling the whole connector, with this recovery cable, is to test if in fact these connectors work and are connected well, because, alternatively, we will find a cable made, it doesn't work and we don't know why. At least we will exclude that the problem was original components. So: negative, if it beeps it means it's connected, let's go to the three ground signals. 1, 2 and 3. There's a little bit of oxide, so next we'll use flux. Video signal, yellow, and there we are. I'm a bit hindered, but because between the camera and everything, well... Audio signal, it's not white, and red. Another audio signal, so the one at the tip will be white.
Well, there are no short circuits. No, there are no short circuits. In practice, I'm checking if the signals also go, by chance, to ground... no! The cable works and therefore we can proceed to connect the wires to the DIN connector.
You need to remove the shell from the DIN connector. The shell is this black part and the connector, which I consider, is all these contacts with the two metal armatures. To remove them, just press lightly here and pull. I am convinced that here it already opens - and in fact - it already opens even without pressing. Because all you have to do is press a little sideways, the shell deforms and the whole connector comes out. Here we are: we have the two mass armatures, this one here and this one on the other side. And then - whoops, it flew away - the actual connector with all the contacts, which we are now going to solder according to what we saw before. So this one on the left will be the audio, this one just below will be the video, composite video, and instead this one at the bottom will be the mass. A bit of a catch is that three socks will have to be connected to the ground: all three shields of the three cables. Instead, on the video only the cable that goes to the yellow RCA will be enough. On the audio, however, both will be needed: the one that goes to the white RCA and the central one that goes to the red.
To solder, I help myself with this third hand. That's what it's called. I can go and tie the connector… I could go and tie the connector… Yes, we did it, so that he holds it and I have two hands free, and then I can use the solder and the wires.
We cut and strip the already pre-printed cable, so as to have a satisfactory result also to the eye and not just to use. I don't cut it right near here, even though I might have a longer cable, but who cares, the TV is close to the computer. Instead, cutting it a little further… ah, what a pain! It always hurts to cut things that already work, but in this case, I can salvage this connector for something else. And to use these wires, to save time, we stick them inside the shell and peel them. We have to bend them a bit, because they have to fit inside the shell.
We'll keep them a little long now because I have to work on them, I have to peel them, I have to solder them, but then, in reality, we're going to shorten them. In short, you can also see by eye that the result will not be bad. If you prefer to use connectors to be soldered, you will have to buy some shielded cable, insert it inside the connector shell, solder the braid (therefore the metal armor that is around the cable) below and the signal which can therefore be the yellow one, the red one, or the white one, on the contact which then goes to the control panel.
And you have to do this for both the red, black and yellow connectors of the CVBS composite video signal. So you should go buy three RCA connectors, of the three colors we just mentioned, three shielded cables and then the DIN connector. Let's continue. Let's cut... then separate the three cables. And we peel. There's always the camera in front that breaks. Ok: 1. And then this last one here, which should be, at this point, white. Here we are. So: the three socks, then the shields, we are going to separate them. This one here and also this one with the red audio signal.
Because then, afterwards, we have to join all three of them, to connect them to this pin here. This one down here, which is the mass. Instead the three wires here are: two of the audio, which go together, white and red, and the yellow, which is the video and goes alone. Let's peel. 1, 2, well, don't ring them too long, because it wouldn't make sense and then it will bother you afterwards. And three!
I'd like to say that we're halfway through the job, but now the soldering part will be a big mess, because they're really small. So, let's turn the three socks together, the three metal shields, so that they're just contact, that they're all three together. So the mass of the video signal and the mass of the two audio signals are together. And then we join together - can you see? - the two audio signals, white and red. Here, in this case the famous question arises: to be or not to be!!! Who made me build a cable when, for a few euros, I could have bought it already made, perhaps from a friend or perhaps on eBay? In fact, you're right too... In hindsight, it would have been quicker to buy it. In fact, I think I suggest that, even though I make a video of how to build it, you go and buy it already made! You save time and, in any case, they don't cost much. So: flux, which is used to remove some oxide, to clean the cables well. And we put the same one down here on the connector. A good amount because, in fact, these threads are not exactly shiny, so I can imagine that there is a lot of oxide. Nice clean soldering iron... let's lend the three cables, then: ground... what a nice smoke... two audio signals and video signal.
On the connector: below is the ground, therefore the sock, the 2. The 5, just barely here, is the CVBS signal, which means composite video and the one completely to the left, the 3, is the audio signal: the red and the white.
Here, remember that you have to insert the shell first. Because, otherwise, if you start soldering the wires before putting on the shell... that's it, then you're screwed! Don't wear the shell anymore! You'll have to re-desolder everything and re-solder again, which is a mess. Let's also prestain these three here... 1, 2, it's joined... now let's detach it. No, we're going to unplug it now anyway.
Here's another tool that comes in handy: the solder sucker. In this case, when you do something stupid like that, suck it up... and that's it! Massa: let's see, if we can fit it in it's better, eh!
Then we straighten it, because I see that underneath there is the third hand clamp that holds the fixed contact, so maybe it's bending it slightly, but then we're going to straighten it. Then we have the video, here, this other one here... He is rightly on the opposite side... what can we expect, that things go straight the way we want? Do you see? Let's hope, eh... I'll leave this out because I see the situation as complicated, otherwise...
And then the audio, which is double and would go right on this one above. Even this one here, if we can't get it inside, we'll solder it outside... Let's see... maybe... No, it got in! Okay!
Let's take one last look... mass below, video and audio. Obviously, the contacts between them must not touch, so now let's isolate them. If this thing happens to you here, i.e. that with the heat you have bent the contacts a little, unfortunately I had put the third hand that pressed while I was heating, in fact it was a mistake, but we can straighten it with pliers.
For what I'm telling you: buy this blessed cable, what do you do first! We isolate with small pieces of tape. One… two… for the two signals. Let's see if we can get it between the connector and the wire here. In practice, I have to insert it so that the mass, even when we go to reassemble the two metal shells, not the plastic one, but the two metal carcasses around it, does not touch with this wire here. Maybe it wouldn't already touch, but it's an extra precaution.
But who made me do it, damn! Let's thin out a little… gross… I mean… How much does it cost? 15 euros? I have to stay here and break it... Nothing, oh now but... You can see this disgusting little piece coming out from here, let's get it out... Ooohhh, let's close!
So that it is isolated. The same fate must befall this detective story, which at this point is even more complicated to see. Let's distance the others a bit. But if you have a bit of money saved up, let's spend it! Damn you have to stay here for two hours assembling a wire! Then the computer could already be seen because it was connected to the RF, therefore to the antenna port. No, to see better! No? And then, because I already had the pieces that I had to recover, when instead I could buy it for a few euros! Oooohhhhh... but then this one has to go back inside, also to avoid touching the mass. So we push it, over here, in.
Here you go! So they are isolated from each other! We also give it a little ribbon around it, just in case...
Let's test with the tester before connecting and screwing everything up. So, this down here is the mass. Remember that we are now seeing it from the other side, so you have to imagine the mirror contacts.
1… okay… and there it is. Well! Video connector... where was it, this way... and it's there! And it must not be connected to audio and it must not be connected to ground. Audio connector, this one, and it must not be connected to the video and must not be connected to ground. More audio, this one, and no video and no ground to avoid short circuits. So the cables are connected well, we can proceed to close the connector.
We close the connector, as you can see here there is all the free space and instead this slot is interrupted by the guide. So, the one interrupted by the guide goes up here, where there's this little hole up here.
Instead that other one would go under here, but first let's close... let's fold these two flaps, in order to fix the cable. So, those who are more obsessive, rightly, might tell you: but also connect these two fins here to earth. So, in that case, you could strip one of these wires for a moment, so that the fin also touches the metal braid of the cable. Honestly, I don't care because inside the computer, however, there will be something that connects the metal to the ground. And, if there isn't, it means that, in the end, they didn't give a damn either. So, if there is, good. If it isn't there, too bad for them (the Philips designers!!!). However, the cable is short and we won't have any major problems. Don't squeeze too much, because we don't want the threads inside to break. This ends here.
And, at this point, always paying attention to the side where the little hole goes here, where this tab is, we can lift it a little, so that it then really grips, not like before, which opened even just by pushing. Let's cheer up a bit. And voilà! Connector done!
We had seen before that the three contacts here, so the three RCA connectors, were slightly oxidized. Then, using a contact spray, I'm going to deoxidize them slightly. Without rubbing too much, in short, just to clean these three contacts here for a moment. On the other hand, however, the DIN connector was already in place, but, well, while we're at it, we'll give it a little cleaning anyway, but it's of no use, because it was already new.
I would say that our cable is perfect! What do you think? It looks good to you! It seems almost professional to me!
Behind the TV we connect the CVBS composite video signal, otherwise called this way… audio… and audio. Then the three RCA connectors: yellow, white and red. Behind the computer the video cable goes here, where it says monitor. Please note that this key, and therefore this indicator signal, must be at the top.
Ok… 230 VAC power supply, I found this fantastic 90° connector, which takes up less space. And it's already turned right, because it goes right in the direction of the power strip where I connect the computer!!!
The TV is already on audio video, so I just turn on the computer and… Yes! Works!
The sound also works, because when I press the keys on the keyboard, I hear the knock knocks. One second while I try to bring the microphone closer...
As for the Philips VG-8010, I bit my tongue, just to say: Ah, yes, let's try it with the VG8010 too, I did gaudy!
Actually, if you remember from the video, I don't have the Philips VG8010 power supply. So you have to use the Amiga's power supply, with all this mess of wires, to be reinserted into the Amiga connector!
Give me five seconds… I'll connect it and then we'll try to see if it works with this too!
We don't leave it on for long because the wires are really unstable and I don't want to ruin it. Just enough time to see if the video cable works. Yes!!!
Then, as I was saying, the power supply is not his, so now we turn it off. Yes, it also does knock-knocks…
Let's turn it off immediately, come on, it works!
Luckily the audio/video cable works and I'm very happy. So, if this video was useful to you, even just to understand that building an audio video cable is a titanic operation and, perhaps, it is worth spending these and buying it already made on eBay or from someone you already know, well like the video, subscribe to the channel and activate the notification bell!
In a future video, we will use the Philips VG 8020 and try this Philips NMS 1520 cassette recorder, the unboxing of which you have already seen. I will write a program in Basic. So, that video will also come as a programming course for Basic, episode 9, which will therefore have to do with MSX. Then we will save the program on cassette and reload it to see if the recorder actually works. See you in the next video! See you soon!